Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Check here for new routes information. Post new routes here.
User avatar
Optimally-Primed
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 350
Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:04 am

Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by Optimally-Primed » Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:57 pm

Announcements numbering three.

First, I regret to announce my retirement from route development in Squamish. Over the past 5 years, I've established or cleaned about 60 pitches. I've thoroughly enjoyed myself and, like Hevy, feel lucky to have been a part of Squamish's second Golden Era. I hope that my efforts have created enjoyable and memorable experiences. My last route could have been called "Movin' to Manitoba". Work calls. Folks, it's been a blast.

Second, allow me to introduce two new Diggers: George and Cyrus. They put in a ton of work into the new route (announced below) and are Diggers to look out for in the future. Tip of the hat to the fellas. Nathalie, Renee, Martin, and Jay also did great work on this project.

Third, the new route is called Rambles. It's 4 pitches and 5.8. It starts about 60m from the Apron Parking Lot and might have the shortest approach to a multipitch in Squamish. Rambles is a great first multipitch, with well-protected, short cruxes, and varied climbing. It also makes for great access to the Diedre area climbs. Imagine a 10 pitch 5.8 route. Imagine no longer. Enjoy it.

download a topo

Pitch 1 starts up a 5.6 groove
Image

The 5.7 crux of the pitch is a face move past a bolt
Image

then a little padding to the anchor

Pitch 2 moves right along an easy crack.
Image

the pitch ends with two short 5.7 cruxes
Image

Pitch 3 rambles upwards past 5 bolts
Image

Image

Pitch 4 tackles a short, steep headwall. The route goes out right at 5.8. A variation (10b) goes straight up the overhanging corner.
Image

leaving the slab, entering the crux
Image

finishing the crux
Image

Lurch
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 252
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 4:26 am
Location: Whistler

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by Lurch » Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:30 pm

Nice work Jer and crew! Local noobs will miss your controversial ways. :)

AaronRN
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 53
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 11:02 pm

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by AaronRN » Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:33 pm

Sorry to see you're moving to Manitoba Jeremy. Great looking route, IMO "Moving to Manitoba" is a MUCH better name then "Rambles", Given that you're been know for considering the opinions of others on matters concerning your routes, a quality rare amongst route developers, I submit that you change the name to "Moving to Manitoba".
Aaron.

Lurch
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 252
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 4:26 am
Location: Whistler

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by Lurch » Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:35 pm

Ditto.

User avatar
Optimally-Primed
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 350
Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:04 am

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by Optimally-Primed » Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:01 am

Thanks for the suggestion. I agree that M to M has a nice ring to it. For various reasons, however, Rambles will be the name. The route is named after someone. And it is now in the soon-to-be-printed next edition of the Squamish Select. Besides, M to M is about me. This route is about you and your experience. I hope that any effects I had on Squamish exists in the memories of people who know me and in the next generation of climbers who wonder "who put in these perfectly placed bolts?"

smallman
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 267
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2008 6:45 pm

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by smallman » Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:08 am

Sorry to hear that work is taking you east Jer. You sparked a revival of Squamish new routing and set a new standard for route cleaniness. Hopefully you have the time to do the same in NW ontario if you are based out of Winnipeg.

User avatar
Optimally-Primed
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 350
Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:04 am

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by Optimally-Primed » Sun Apr 15, 2012 8:50 am

Thanks Chris! I'm psyched to hear you say that!

User avatar
squamish climber
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 693
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:42 pm
Location: Bowen Island

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by squamish climber » Sun Apr 15, 2012 3:24 pm

Jeremy et crew -- thanks for the great addition.

New routes on the Apron are rare -- looks like a great easy moderate and one that's bound to see a lot of traffic.

Glad to hear you're passing the torch to some motivated diggers. You're going to be missed but long remembered.

Good luck.
Dave Jones - site admin
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb

George
I'm New Here
I'm New Here
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 4:06 pm
Location: Valleycliffe

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by George » Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:13 am

Thanks for everything Jeremy. This has been an incredible experience.

Hop on it everybody! I'd love to hear everyone's feedback.

george
George

scrubber
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 339
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 9:31 pm
Location: Squampton

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by scrubber » Mon Apr 16, 2012 9:10 pm

I raise my glass to you Jer! Thanks for helping to revitalize my gardening passions post-parenthood.

(And I don't believe for a second that this will be the last route you develop in Squamish!)

I think one of us will find a route to name Movin' to Manitoba this summer in your honor.

K

Khoi
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 50
Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2008 12:11 am
Location: Vancouver, BC

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by Khoi » Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:40 pm

I was great to finally meet you Jeremy! I guess I can say that I had a miniscule part on that route, having sold you some of the bolts/hangers. :D

I'm sorry to hear that you're not gonna stick around.

Have a great time in Manitoba!

(What's the climbing like there????)
~Khoi

User avatar
Optimally-Primed
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 350
Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:04 am

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by Optimally-Primed » Wed Apr 18, 2012 7:19 am

Kris, I'm touched.
Little did I know that I helped nudge the Wayne Gretzky of Squamish route development into wearing the 99 once again.
I'd be honoured to know that a route has that name...
J

Lurch
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 252
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 4:26 am
Location: Whistler

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by Lurch » Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:19 am

Awesome Route! Did it the other day. I highly reccomend getting the extra pitches in rather than walking to the base of Diedre area... Thanks Jer and Friends!

NateDoggOG
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 236
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:35 am

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by NateDoggOG » Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:22 pm

Looks like a fun outing in itself, as well as a better way to avoid the scramble.
Wish I could have met you in person Jer before you left for Manitoba.
Thanks for the climbs.

Nathan

supafly
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 143
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 9:02 am

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Post by supafly » Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:39 am

Thanks for all your hard work Jeremy, and thanks for this new route.. I look forward to getting on it on the next dry day.

Any comments on how quickly it dries?

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests