Rambles (4p, 5.8)

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Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby Optimally-Primed » Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:57 pm

Announcements numbering three.

First, I regret to announce my retirement from route development in Squamish. Over the past 5 years, I've established or cleaned about 60 pitches. I've thoroughly enjoyed myself and, like Hevy, feel lucky to have been a part of Squamish's second Golden Era. I hope that my efforts have created enjoyable and memorable experiences. My last route could have been called "Movin' to Manitoba". Work calls. Folks, it's been a blast.

Second, allow me to introduce two new Diggers: George and Cyrus. They put in a ton of work into the new route (announced below) and are Diggers to look out for in the future. Tip of the hat to the fellas. Nathalie, Renee, Martin, and Jay also did great work on this project.

Third, the new route is called Rambles. It's 4 pitches and 5.8. It starts about 60m from the Apron Parking Lot and might have the shortest approach to a multipitch in Squamish. Rambles is a great first multipitch, with well-protected, short cruxes, and varied climbing. It also makes for great access to the Diedre area climbs. Imagine a 10 pitch 5.8 route. Imagine no longer. Enjoy it.

download a topo

Pitch 1 starts up a 5.6 groove
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The 5.7 crux of the pitch is a face move past a bolt
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then a little padding to the anchor

Pitch 2 moves right along an easy crack.
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the pitch ends with two short 5.7 cruxes
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Pitch 3 rambles upwards past 5 bolts
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Pitch 4 tackles a short, steep headwall. The route goes out right at 5.8. A variation (10b) goes straight up the overhanging corner.
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leaving the slab, entering the crux
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finishing the crux
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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby Lurch » Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:30 pm

Nice work Jer and crew! Local noobs will miss your controversial ways. :)
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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby AaronRN » Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:33 pm

Sorry to see you're moving to Manitoba Jeremy. Great looking route, IMO "Moving to Manitoba" is a MUCH better name then "Rambles", Given that you're been know for considering the opinions of others on matters concerning your routes, a quality rare amongst route developers, I submit that you change the name to "Moving to Manitoba".
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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby Lurch » Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:35 pm

Ditto.
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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby Optimally-Primed » Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:01 am

Thanks for the suggestion. I agree that M to M has a nice ring to it. For various reasons, however, Rambles will be the name. The route is named after someone. And it is now in the soon-to-be-printed next edition of the Squamish Select. Besides, M to M is about me. This route is about you and your experience. I hope that any effects I had on Squamish exists in the memories of people who know me and in the next generation of climbers who wonder "who put in these perfectly placed bolts?"
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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby smallman » Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:08 am

Sorry to hear that work is taking you east Jer. You sparked a revival of Squamish new routing and set a new standard for route cleaniness. Hopefully you have the time to do the same in NW ontario if you are based out of Winnipeg.
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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby Optimally-Primed » Sun Apr 15, 2012 8:50 am

Thanks Chris! I'm psyched to hear you say that!
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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby squamish climber » Sun Apr 15, 2012 3:24 pm

Jeremy et crew -- thanks for the great addition.

New routes on the Apron are rare -- looks like a great easy moderate and one that's bound to see a lot of traffic.

Glad to hear you're passing the torch to some motivated diggers. You're going to be missed but long remembered.

Good luck.
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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby George » Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:13 am

Thanks for everything Jeremy. This has been an incredible experience.

Hop on it everybody! I'd love to hear everyone's feedback.

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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby bearbreeder » Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:41 am

i predict this will be this years skywalker ... the most popular multi in squish

best of luck to you ...
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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby scrubber » Mon Apr 16, 2012 9:10 pm

I raise my glass to you Jer! Thanks for helping to revitalize my gardening passions post-parenthood.

(And I don't believe for a second that this will be the last route you develop in Squamish!)

I think one of us will find a route to name Movin' to Manitoba this summer in your honor.

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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby Khoi » Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:40 pm

I was great to finally meet you Jeremy! I guess I can say that I had a miniscule part on that route, having sold you some of the bolts/hangers. :D

I'm sorry to hear that you're not gonna stick around.

Have a great time in Manitoba!

(What's the climbing like there????)
~Khoi
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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby Optimally-Primed » Wed Apr 18, 2012 7:19 am

Kris, I'm touched.
Little did I know that I helped nudge the Wayne Gretzky of Squamish route development into wearing the 99 once again.
I'd be honoured to know that a route has that name...
J
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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby Lurch » Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:19 am

Awesome Route! Did it the other day. I highly reccomend getting the extra pitches in rather than walking to the base of Diedre area... Thanks Jer and Friends!
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Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Postby NateDoggOG » Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:22 pm

Looks like a fun outing in itself, as well as a better way to avoid the scramble.
Wish I could have met you in person Jer before you left for Manitoba.
Thanks for the climbs.

Nathan
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